![]() ![]() This let me see where the rod would hang down so I knew where to install the lower assembly. Using a connecting nut, I screwed in the 1/4" hex rod to the top drive assembly, as shown in Picture 4. Use a wrench to tighten this assembly into a block of scrap 2x4. As shown in Pictures 2 and 3, this is a simple assembly with a tapping hex bolt holding 2 washers and an eye bolt for a drive. Next, make and attach the lower drive assembly to the treadle. I let mine stick out about a half inch on each side of the table legs. Cut the steel rod to length using a hacksaw. Check to make sure your steel bar will fit cleanly through the holes (Picture 1). This is the height at which the treadle will pivot. I put mine 4 1/2" off the ground based on what was comfortable for me. To install the treadle, drill 2 parallel 1/2" holes through the front open space in your tool table. Secure the two pieces together using glue or screws. You will want this to be as centered and straight as possible. This grooved block is what holds the paddle onto the steel (Picture 3).Ĭenter the groove over the pivot point on your treadle, as shown in Picture 4. ![]() In the next step, you will use a piece of 1/2" steel round stock to create the pivot for the treadle. Using a router, chisel, or combination plane, make a groove 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep. I used a hand plane to smooth out what the down side would be. Next, cut a piece of 2"x2" square stock that is as wide as the treadle paddle. Picture 2 has another view of the shaped treadle paddle. The part of the treadle behind the pivot point is where your off-foot presses down to bring the treadle back up to repeat the cycle. ![]() As shown in Picture 1, I decided the pivot point of the treadle would be 4 inches from the back of the board and provided one foot's length of room in front of this point. I used a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood that was 12 inches wide and 18 inches long. I shaped mine to my dominant foot, but this is optional. The treadle consists of a slab of wood which will be worked with your feet up and down to provide power to the grinding stone. Now it's time to start building the treadle that will power the grinding stone. Picture 4 shows a front view of the clearances allowed. This hole will need to be long enough to account for any horizontal movement of the drive assembly from Step 3, as well as allowing the drive pulley to turn freely. You will also need to cut a hole in the top that the pulley wheel (if applicable) and the treadle rod will fit through. The total top measures 24" x 24" to give some overhang on each side, as I will be attaching several other tools to the edges of my stand.īefore attaching the top to the stand, mark and drill any mounting holes, as shown in Picture 2. If you choose to do this, make sure it will not interfere with any mounting bolts for when you attach the tool to the top of the stand.įor the top of my stand I used 3/4 plywood and dimensional lumber that were scraps in my shop. I added a central beam to support the weight of my grinding wheel. We will be mounting the treadle here later. IMPORTANT: Leave at least one side open at the bottom, as shown in Picture 1. I recommend painting the stand to protect it from wear and weather, but it's currently too cold here for paint to set properly. I also added adjustable feet to the legs of my stand to help keep the stand level. I used 2x4 boards and mortise and tenon construction. Build your stand as square and as sturdy as possible. In my case, I built a stand that is 36" tall and 18"x18" square. There isn't a lot I can say about this step since you will have to build your tool's stand to the size of yourself and the tool itself. This is necessary for the treadle to work. Make sure not to tighten the locking nut too much- the eye bolt should be able to turn freely between the washers. Pictures 4 and 5 show the completed assembly installed on the pulley. I had to file down the inner-most washer to get it to fit against the pulley (Picture 3). The hardware and its installation order, from right to left, is shown in Picture 2. I used the following hardware to make this assembly:ġ: 1/2" x 4" hex bolt 4: 1/2" washers 1: 1/4" x 3" eye bolt (Chosen because the eye was 1/2" in diameter and would fit on the main bolt) 1: 1/2" hex nut 1: 1/2" locking hex nut (nylon insert nut) Placing this assembly towards the outer rim of the pulley would allow higher torque but lower speed per rotation.ĭrill a hole through the wooden pieces that is wide enough to fit a thick bolt (Picture 1). I chose to offset by about one inch so that I could achieve higher speeds with my grinding wheel. To do this, the treadle needs to be attached to a point offset from the drive pulley's main axis. Next, I added the assembly that would turn the treadle power into rotational power. ![]()
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